General Information on Popular Japanese Teas
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for recent articles about Japanese tea, culture & industry]
Ryokucha or
green tea is the predominant tea beverage consumed throughout Japan today. There are many
kinds available. We have grouped ten of the most popular kinds of green tea,
which are still produced in
most of Japans tea gardens. Japanese green tea is generally classified by the type
of cultivation and production methods, and is historically named according to the main
processes undertaken. Tea origin is obviously important; with regional names often
appearing prefixed, or assigned in some modified form within the name. Japanese production
techniques have centred exclusively on perfecting and diversifying forms of green tea,
traditionally showing no interest in the fermented (black) tea much favoured
by the Western tea drinker. Even so, a remarkable selection of teas are produced in Japan
and much is made of regional and seasonal variations among the many kinds of green tea
available, particularly the higher grades of tea. Early season sencha, the new season tea
or shin cha, are generally regarded as the best of each years crop, and
different regions compete on quality and seasonal availability. There are also those
special occasion teas such as gyokuro, (a rarity and extravagantly priced); houjicha - a
roasted tea and very much an evening drink; and the famous ceremony beverage, a powdered
tea called maccha.
Gyokuro
Gyokuro
or jade dew. A reference to the pale green colours of the infusion.
This green tea
is actually selected from a precursor grade known as ten-cha and is regarded
as the
highest grade of tea made in Japan. Seen very much as a luxury, and rare commodity,
the
gyokuro teas are made only with the limited first flush leaf in order to achieve a
rich
and round flavour with a delicate, pale lemon-green colour. Gyokuros organoleptic
characteristics are produced from the special cultivation used. The tea plant is grown in
the shade for approximately twenty days before harvesting is commenced. Removing direct
sunlight in this way has the effect of reducing leaf photosynthesis, which alters the
proportions of sugars, amino acids, flavanols and other substances responsible for tea
aroma and taste. Gyokuro tea is generally sweet and delicate in flavour, as well as having
a soft palate texture. It makes an excellent light evening tea. The main gyokuro producing
regions of merit are Yame in Fukuoka, Uji in Kyoto and Okabe in Shizuoka Prefecture.
Gyokuro teas are certainly rare outside of Japan and generally prohibitively expensive.
Sencha
Sencha,
literally meaning, roasted tea, pertains to the past processing methods
used to make this most popular of all Japanese green tea. Today, sencha is initially steam
treated before further processing with hot-air drying and finally pan-frying. Over three
quarters of all tea now produced in the Japanese tea gardens is in fact graded as
sencha,
a tea selected for its pleasant sharpness and fresh qualities complementing a leaf of high
uniformity and rich emerald colour. However, the flavour, colour and general quality of
sencha is highly variable, and depends not only on origin but also season and the leaf
processing practises locally employed. It is well known that later harvests of sencha have
more bitter qualities, a more robust flavour and generally less aroma. Furthermore, the
leaf of late season teas is generally less uniform. Much is said of the shin cha,
the earliest becoming available in April in the south of Japan, and sold because of its
high vitamin content, sweetness and superior flavour. Most regions make a number of kinds
of sencha, which are named according to the kind of processing used. Sencha is the tea
most likely to be offered in a Japanese household or restaurant. Certainly sencha is
starting to appear outside of Japan in food stores, specialist food shops and even
supermarkets. The higher grades of sencha are available from some tea merchants, but the
best teas remain largely unobtainable.
Kamairi-cha
Kamairi-cha also
known as pan-fired tea. This is sometimes referred to as Chinese green
tea by the Japanese owing to the pan-frying processing which predominates in the
making of this richly flavoured tea. Kamairi teas do not undergo the usual steam
treatments. After a short withering, these teas are fired in hot iron pans of up to 300°C
with repeated agitation to prevent charring. This Kamairi process develops sweet, mildly
roasted flavours, which are very similar to the pan-fried teas produced in China today.
The different rolling techniques used can give rise to teas of different leaf form, and
Kamairicha can be processed as a pelleted leaf or flat leaf. Several southern regions are
known for making fine Kamairicha; Sechibaru and Ureshino are two of the most respected for
their pan-fried manufacture. Kamairicha is generally not available in the West, however
one or two specialist tea merchants are making this tea more well known.
Maccha
Powdered
or ground tea. This is the well-known powdery green tea of the Japanese Tea
Ceremony (Chano-yu). Maccha is regarded as a heavy green tea by the
Japanese, but in fact it can be prepared as a strong (koicha) or weak tea (usucha)
depending on the way it is made. Quite often the best maccha is used for Chano-yu,
and the bitter end to the tea ceremony shocks the uninitiated who attend such gatherings. Usucha
is very easy to make, simply add hot water and stir, to give a kind of instant
tea. No prior knowledge of Chano-yu is needed. Maccha has similar origins to
gyokuro, i.e. an early season, high grade, shade-grown tea. After steaming the maccha leaf
is comprehensively stone ground to a light and fine green powder. The tea is rich in amino
acids, vitamins, and minerals and high in caffeine and catechin antioxidants (the latter
being a consequence of the very small particle size of the processed leaf). The highest
grades of maccha have more sweetness and deeper flavour than the coarser teas of later
harvests. The most famous maccha-producing region is Nishio in Aichi (on the main island
of Honshu). This tea is specifically referred to as Nishiocha. Good ceremony teas
are very hard to find outside Japan.
Mecha
Mecha
or bud
tea. The name of this tea derives from the early leaf buds needed to make this special
green tea. Meccha is renowned for its depth of flavour, considerable astringency and
bitter green aftertaste. Mecha is harvested in spring and made as rolled leaf teas that
are graded somewhere between gyokuro and sencha in quality. In fact Mecha are made from a
collection of leaf buds and tips of the early crops. The distinctive, sharp flavour and
aroma of Mecha is well understood by tea connoisseurs, and is often regarded as being as
good as the best sencha. The best Mecha produces an aromatic tea with a clear, soft yellow
appearance. The Sushi restaurants more usually referred to as Agari, use top quality Mecha
served with the meal. Owing to the bitter qualities of Mecha, this is a good tea to drink
after meals to cleanse the palate.
Hukamushi
Hukamushi (also Fu-)
or deep-steamed tea. Hukamushi-cha is a heavily steamed green tea, and often given
the name misty green tea because of the slightly cloudy effect of the
teas infusion. The steaming period for the Hukamushi teas is much longer than for
any sencha. This prolonged steaming has the effect of reducing bitterness and makes for a
more mild tea, with less green aroma. The leaf of Hukamushi green tea is
characteristically non-uniform, a broken grade, in factory terminology where the
time needed for infusion and temperature of water are much less critical than for other
Japanese green teas. To date Hukamushi teas are virtually unheard of outside Japan.
Kukicha
Kukicha
or stalk tea. Also called stick tea owing the long thin shape of this leaf-stalk
blend. The tea is made by collecting the stalk fractions of gyokuro and sencha and
processed to an emerald leaf and pale green stalk blend. Kukicha is strictly made from
stalks produced by harvesting of one bud and three leaves. The leaves go on to make
gyokuro and high graded sencha. The main characteristics of Kukicha are its light
flavours, and fresh, green aroma with a very light yellow-green colour. In fact for
Kukicha, the thinner and less green the infusion; the higher is the quality of the tea.
For the best stalk tea, the flavour is considered to be as good as highest quality
sencha.
Inexpensive and an enthusiasts tea, rarely seen outside Japan.
Bancha
Bancha
meaning common tea and possibly a reference to the coarser grades and heavier, late
season crop from which this full-flavoured tea is made. Bancha is made from larger leaves
than are usually available for sencha grades. However, it should be made clear that bancha
are generally seen as other kinds of sencha which are harvested as a second flush
tea between summer and autumn. It should be said that bancha usually lacks the delicate
sweetness of quality sencha. Nevertheless, bancha is respected because of the teas
well-defined character, vivid yellow colours and refreshing and deep flavours. The
strength of flavour held by many bancha means that they go well with food. Becoming more
widely available in the West owing to the lower price of these green teas.
Houjicha
Houjicha
a pan-fried or oven roasted green tea commonly encountered in teashops
throughout Japan. Houjicha holds very little bitterness, they also tend to be aromatic
teas as well as being light on the palate and quite refreshing. Both bancha and Kukicha
are used to make houjicha grades. The tea is fried at high temperature, the leaf colours
then alter from green tints to red, and the roasted flavours are extracted and
predominate. The main types of houjicha are light and deep-fried. As expected, the deeper
fried leaf produce teas with a deeper roast aroma and taste. Houjicha infusions have a
distinctively clear red appearance (as distinct from hongcha) and are reputedly low
in caffeine as well as catechin antioxidants. The clean, roasted flavours of houjicha go
with any kind of food, particularly oily foods, and is often appreciated as an
after-dinner tea. Inexpensive, but rarely encountered in the West.
Genmaicha
Genmaicha
or roasted rice tea is a blend of bancha green tea and Genmai (roasted rice
grain). The flavours of Genmaicha, are a melange of the green tea and the roasted rice.
The roasted aroma of Genmai teas has the effect of lightening the bitterness of the lower
grade sencha. The proportioning of tea to rice is important, the more aromatic Genmai teas
have a higher amount of rice. Other blends are known including maccha and Genmaicha.
Moreover, the tea can be infused with high temperature water and for longer infusion
periods than most Japanese teas. The Genmai teas are seen as a modest source of vitamin B1
and like bancha and houjicha contain less caffeine. Genmaicha can be drunk late into the
evening without fear that it will disturb sleep. A very common beverage in Japan,
manufactured by most tea producing regions. Many travellers who have spent some time in
Japan also know the tea.
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Spring scene from the tea gardens at Ureshino, Kyushu Island, Japan.
Earliest and most valuable spring green teas are still picked by hand in certain
regions of Japan.
The arrival of the cherry blossom in April marks
the beginning of the shin-cha, new season tea.
It's an exciting time for everyone involved in the tea cycle!
Scene from Hoshino, in eastern Yame, bordering on the mountainous region of
Ooita.
Gyokuro tea cultivation at Yame, Fukuoka Prefecture.
It's more usual in Japan to drink green tea from a Yunomi (a shallow bowl or
beaker-like teacup without handle). Here, we
have a Japanese glazed stoneware teacup of western design. The green tea is a
shin-cha, or spring sencha.
Ceremony tea or Maccha is widely consumed at tea gatherings and home in Japan.
Many kinds of Maccha teacup
are made, the most distinguished regions for Ceremony Tea Ware are Kyoto, Karatsu
and Arita. Collector's pieces can be extremely expensive!
View of Sechibaru.
A town is situated in Nagasaki Prefecture to the northwestern edge of the
island of Kyushu. The village is a couple of hundred metres above sea level
and located about 40km north of the port of Sasebo, close to the port and
ancient pottery town of Imari, that is 30km to the west.
Kamairi-cha used to be made by hand using pan roasting methods. Today, one or two
gardens still
practice
these traditional methods, but the bulk of Kamairi-cha is now made in automated
firing ovens.
Tea seeds in their pod. Three seeds to each pod.
The region manufactures the broadest variety of green tea
and is also the second largest producer in Japan.
Tea gardens in mid summer are aflush with open green leaves.
Tea factory. This picture is of a modern Sencha & Kamairi-cha sorting factory in
Ureshino.
A winter scene in one of Sechibaru's kabuse-cha hillside gardens.
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